At the pop-up, sambal appeared in dozens of variations, from the smoky Sambal Terasi with shrimp paste, to the Sambal Dabu Dabu from Manado in North Sulawesi, made with bird’s eye chillies, tomatoes and lime, or the fragrant Sambal Matah from Bali, with onions, chillies, and lemongrass. Alongside came spicy pickled sides like Acar Timun (cucumber) and Acar Nanas (pineapple).
At the heart of their cooking are certain non-negotiables: velvety coconut milk; bumbu dapur, a spice paste of shallots, garlic, chili, and candlenuts that forms the base of countless dishes like Rendang and Satay marinades; and kecap manis. Coastal kitchens lean on seafood, mountain communities on roots and spices, and trade has always brought outside influences to the mix. “Spices, herbs, and fermented ingredients are the soul of Indonesian cuisine,” the chefs explained. Turmeric, ginger, lemongrass, and basil provide brightness, while shrimp paste and tempeh add umami depth.
